Bonsai Links

Resources

Organizations

Albuquerque Bonsai Club (ABC) http://abqbonsaiclub.com/

American Bonsai Society http://www.absbonsai.org/

Bonsai Clubs International http://www.bonsai-bci.com/

US National Bonsai and Penjing Museum http://www.usna.usda.gov/

Golden State Bonsai Federation (GSBF) http://www.gsbf-bonsai.org/

National Bonsai Foundation http://www.bonsai-nbf.org/

Discussion Groups

Internet Bonsai Club http://ibonsaiclub.forumotion.com/

Art of Bonsai Project http://www.artofbonsai.org/

Bonsai Magazines

Bonsai Focus (English edition) http://bonsaifocus.com/

International Bonsai http://www.internationalbonsai.com/

Bonsai Nurseries

Dallas Bonsai Garden (Al wire, tools) http://www.dallasbonsai.com/

Adams Bonsai (Cu wire) http://www.adamsbonsai.com/

Deer Meadow Bonsai (Cu wire, plants)http://www.jimgremel.com/bonsaihomepage.html

Bonsai Northwest (Seattle) (plants, pots) http://www.bonsainw.com/

Articles

http://www.evergreengardenworks.com/

http://www.top13.net/suiseki-artists-turn-so-far-unnoticed-stones-into-magnificent-art/

What is Bonsai?

Contrary to what many people think, bonsai is not a specific tree species. Bonsai can be created from many varieties of trees, shrubs, and vines. Both Coniferous and Deciduous trees are used in bonsai. Pine, Maple and Juniper are considered the ‘Classic’ bonsai. 

Combining both horticultural and artistic skills the objective of bonsai, regardless of the species, is to create the illusion of fully grown, mature trees in miniature. It involves the bringing of tree(s) and pot together into visual harmony.

Classified by styles, relating to the trunk angle, shape, number of trunks, formal, informal, slanting, cascade or group planting, bonsai  vary  dramatically in size from tiny shito bonsai trees grown in containers the size of a thimble, to trees requiring several men to move.

A bonsai should have a well tapered trunk and have branches all around the tree aiding to give the bonsai visual depth and ‘beauty’. The lower part of the trunk should be visible and well seated to show its ‘power’.

Wiring branches on younger tress, for as long as needed helps to encourage them to set into desired positions.

Contrary to what many believe, age is not a prerequisite for a bonsai tree. Instead, several techniques can be used to increase the illusion of age.  Two advanced techniques, Jin and Sharimiki involve the removal of  bark and subsequent carving of the exposed wood create the effect of an ancient tree that has suffered a trauma many years ago.

Bonsai do not differ genetically from trees found in nature. They stay small because they are confined in a container.

Soil

There are nearly as many bonsai soil recipes as there are bonsai trees in the world. It seems that just about everyone has their own mix. The important thing is to find a recipe that works for you and your trees. Your soil mix should provide enough water retention to sustain the tree between watering, yet be loose enough to allow for adequate drainage. You must also consider your fertilizing routine when planning a soil mix. Soil mixes with organic components tend to retain more moisture, as well as retain more fertilizers. This means that if you are fertilizing often then you will need to be careful that you do not overload the soil with fertilizer. Too much fertilizer may burn the fine feeder roots.  Inorganic or “soil-less” mixes are another alternative. I’ve been using a soil mix that I adopted from Boon Manakitivipart:

·         1/3 Akadama

·         1/3 Lava

·         1/3 Pumice

·         5% Horticultural Charcoal

·         5% Decomposed Granite

For deciduous trees and trees that prefer more moisture, use a smaller/finer mix with a little more Akadama added to retain more moisture. An inorganic mix such as the one detailed above, allows you to water and fertilize a little more often. Watering more often will help flush the soil of excess salts and other build-ups that may occur from municipal watering. Fertilizing more often will help produce ample growth during our growing season.

 

“You can grow plants in anything if you change your watering, fertilizing, and other cultural habits to match your soil” ? Brent Walston

 

There are a number of trace elements that a tree will need to survive. By using a soil-less mix you control when the tree receives fertilizers, vitamins, and minerals. A good way to add the amendments to the soil is with organic fertilizer cakes. Organic fertilizer cakes will have many of the nutrients that a tree will need, and will deliver these on a continual basis with each watering. With a well draining soil mix, liquid fertilizer may be lost too quickly. That isn’t to say that liquid fertilizers shouldn’t be used. Trees such as pines and junipers will do well with an extra dose of an acidic type fertilizer a few times during the growing season. This will increase the acidity level enough for the trees. Since switching to the inorganic soil mix I’ve seen increased root development, and have stronger, healthier trees. In fact, watering has become easier, as it’s nearly impossible to over-water with this rapidly draining soil.

 

Happy New Year!

Albuquerque Bonsai Club is proud to welcome its members to the new year. Since 1975 the club has supported local bonsai practitioners with open arms and a willingness to share. The website extends this support even further by providing an accessible 24 hour online up to date resource. At your fingertips you will find current weather forecasts, bonsai care tips, meeting announcements and much more. Set the site as your homepage or just come back often.

This is your single best resource for growing bonsai in the high desert.

Hope you enjoy the site and see you at the next meeting.

Tools

Bonsai Tools

Let’s face it, tools are cool. No matter the occupation, the hobby or the obsession, we all love a shiny set of new tools. But, when it comes to cost, the sky is the limit for even just a single sparkling beauty. However, when it comes to bonsai, if you are smart, you can avoid breaking your bank. With a basic set of tools you can go a long way to create miniature masterpieces. Rules of thumb, get the best you can afford, shop around and ask questions. 

essentials:

1)  Concave Cutter – This is the essential go to tool for Bonsai cultivation. Primarily, it is designed for removing branches. Concave cutters leave a small indented cut that heals quickly and minimizes scar tissue. A must have. There really is no substitute. An 8″ pair can purchased for as little as $30.

2 ) Wire Cutter – Wire cutters accomplish two things with wire. First, they are used to cut wire into pieces as needed from the rolls. Second, they are  used for cutting the wire into links when removing the wire from branch wrapings. Never try to unwrap wire from a tree. Always cut it off. If you are going to attempt to substitute bonsai wire cutters for something from the tool shed, make sure that they are rounded at the top. This will allow you to get as close to a branch as possible while cutting wire and at the same time avoid cutting into the tree. 

3 ) Shears (3 sizes shown) – While three sizes are show, for the beginner, one should suffice. Bonsai shears, sometimes referred to as bonsai scissors, are extremely effective at trimming roots, twigs, and branches from your bonsai. If you are on a budget, quality shears or scissors can be obtained at most garden stores. 

4) Chop Stick (not shown) – Do not under estimate the value of this seemingly simple and inexpensive tool. It possibly has more potential uses than any other tool in the Bonsai tool box. Some of its uses include; packing soil, to brace a tree, to assist in a branch bend, a water gauge, a soil rake, a root comb, a back scratcher or a nose picker. Or whatever else you come up with. Chopsticks can usually be obtained for free along with an order of your favorite chinese take out. If you use your chop stick as a nose picker, do not share it – thank you. 

 

Nice to have:

4) Leaf trimmer – Bonsai leaf trimmers are  also known as bonsai bud snippers or defoliators. They perform the easiest bonsai tree maintenance focusing on the light and delicate.

5) Rake with Spatula – This tool allows the enthusiast  to rake and pick root balls apart for a more controlled root trim and repotting.

6) Root Hook – Again, this tool is made to comb through bonsai roots easily.  Perhaps if you have a rake, you can for go this tool for now. Another great substitute is running water and your hand.

7) Knob Cutter – A knob cutter is designed to make a concave cut and remove trunk knobs and roots. It produces a hollow, circular cut that heals quickly with a minimum amount of scarring. The cutting head on this tool is on the tip (not the side like concave cutters), which allows you to cut much more forcefully. This makes it an ideal tool to have when cutting, carving, or shaping deadwood.

8 ) Turn Table (not shown) – Bonsai Turntables can get very elaborate. They are used while styling a tree and provide a convenient method for rotating the tree in order to make stylistic judgments. Prices vary wildly on this item. A quick substitute might be a rotating spice rack.

 

Silly, but fun;

9) Coir Brush –  This traditional Japanese tool is for keeping the surface of the soil free of litter without damaging surface roots. But really, it is just a small broom if you really think about it. Or is it?

About Bonsai

Contrary to what many people think, bonsai is not a specific tree species. Bonsai can be created from many varieties of trees, shrubs, and vines. Both Coniferous and Deciduous trees are used in bonsai. Pine, Maple and Juniper are considered the ‘Classic’ bonsai. 

Combining both horticultural and artistic skills the objective of bonsai, regardless of the species, is to create the illusion of fully grown, mature trees in miniature. It involves the bringing of tree(s) and pot together into visual harmony.

Classified by styles, relating to the trunk angle, shape, number of trunks, formal, informal, slanting, cascade or group planting, bonsai  vary  dramatically in size from tiny shito bonsai trees grown in containers the size of a thimble, to trees requiring several men to move.

A bonsai should have a well tapered trunk and have branches all around the tree aiding to give the bonsai visual depth and ‘beauty’. The lower part of the trunk should be visible and well seated to show its ‘power’.

Wiring branches on younger tress, for as long as needed helps to encourage them to set into desired positions.

Contrary to what many believe, age is not a prerequisite for a bonsai tree. Instead, several techniques can be used to increase the illusion of age.  Two advanced techniques, Jin and Sharimiki involve the removal of  bark and subsequent carving of the exposed wood create the effect of an ancient tree that has suffered a trauma many years ago.

Bonsai do not differ genetically from trees found in nature. They stay small because they are confined in a container.

Bonsai In New Mexico—By Roger Case

I first became interested in bonsai in 1969 after attending the Japanese Obon Festival in Monterey, California, where there was a display of what I believed to be a wonderful group of bonsai. I was hooked, and followed up with a visit to a local bonsai nursery. But this was before I faced the rigors of graduate school!

In 1981 (after graduate school), I settled down in Albuquerque, New Mexico. There, in 1984, I took my first formal instruction in bonsai with the local teaching experts in New Mexico, Buck and Donna Buckholtz. Buck and Donna had both taught basic bonsai classes beginning some years earlier and continued until Buck’s passing in 2004. They taught bonsai for more years than most of my trees have been alive! That was in 1984, but bonsai had been alive (if not in a large way) in New Mexico for many years prior to that.

Perhaps the earliest purveyors of bonsai in New Mexico were George and Laurose Page, who operated a bonsai nursery in Clovis, NM, in the 1960s and 1970s. Clovis is located in the southeast part of New Mexico, on the eastern plains. Its climate is quite similar to that of the west Texas city of Lubbock.

In 1975, a small group of bonsai artists gathered in Albuquerque, then and still the state’s largest city, to form the Albuquerque Bonsai Club. To the best of my knowledge, there was no organized bonsai activity in the state before this time (other than the Clovis nursery). It has been alleged by Anthony (Tony) Mihalic, present owner and proprietor of Wildwood Gardens in Chandon, Ohio, that the Mihalics and Pages used to drive with their bonsai material to many of the southwest and Midwest cities whenever bonsai people got together for conventions or workshops.

However, the Clovis nursery closed in the 1980s, so then there was only 1 nursery with any significant bonsai activity. This nursery was operated by Sam Yamamoto, along with his wife and family. The Yamamoto nursery Japanese Nursery was located in Albuquerque’s North Valley along the Rio Grande River, in Albuquerque. It was here that the Buckholtzs taught bonsai, and where I took my first lessons in 1984 there. The Yamamotos continued operating this nursery until the city of Albuquerque had the land condemned for a bridge crossing the Rio Grande built in the l980s. Today, while bonsai are still sold by Wal Mart, Target, and traveling bonsai vendors (from Dallas and Denver) on street corners in Albuquerque, there is no remaining nursery that specializes in bonsai in the state.

Albuquerque Bonsai Club

The Albuquerque Bonsai Club (ABC) also remains today as the only club in the state, as Albuquerque is the only real area of bonsai activity in the state. Beginning in 1979, Ben Oki was the first bonsai master invited to conduct a bonsai workshop. Since then, other bonsai masters have presented workshops bonsai culture in Albuquerque. Visiting masters have included John Naka, Chase Rosade, Jim Barrett, Hal Sasaki, Toshio Subaromaru, Mel Ikeda, Ray Nagatoshi, Ernie Kuo, Guy Guidry and others. Just two years ago, we were honored with a day and a half visit by Masahiko Kimura who was traveling back to Japan from a convention in Atlanta, Georgia. Mr. Kimura presented a slide show and discussion on bonsai for ABC members and members of the Japanese-American Club here in Albuquerque. As for events, the ABC generally sponsors two workshops a year when visiting masters are brought into the city, and we invite our non-Albuquerque members from locations as far away as Los Cruces, NM to attend.

New Mexico Species and Climatic Conditions

The state of New Mexico has a wide range of climates, with 6 of the 7 climatic zones of the continental USA found within its borders. The Rocky Mountains extend from the north into the middle of New Mexico, with peaks as high as 14,056 ft. In the northern part of the state, there are extensive forests of fir, various 2- and 5-needle pines (including the pinyon pine which yield “pine nuts”).

Below is a list of species native to the state (those marked with an asterisk are known to be used for bonsai in the ABC):

New Mexico Conifers
Abies concolor (Gord. & Glend.) Lindl. ex Hildebr. White fir
Abies concolor var. concolor (Gord. & Glend.) Lindl. ex Hildebr. White fir
Abies lasiocarpa (Hook.) Nutt. Subalpine fir
Abies lasiocarpa var. arizonica (Merriam) Lemmon corkbark fir
Abies lasiocarpa var. lasiocarpa (Hook.) Nutt. Subalpine fir
Picea engelmannii Parry ex Engelm. Engelmann spruce
*Picea pungens Engelm. Blue spruce
Pinus aristata Engelm. Bristlecone pine
Pinus arizonica Engelm. Arizona pine
Pinus arizonica var. arizonica Engelm. Arizona pine
*Pinus cembroides Zucc. Mexican pinyon
*Pinus edulis Engelm. Two needle pinyon
Pinus edulis var. edulis Engelm. Two needle pinyon
Pinus engelmannii Carr. Apache pine
Pinus flexilis James limber pine
Pinus leiophylla Schiede & Deppe Chihuahuan pine
Pinus leiophylla var. chihuahuana (Engelm.) Shaw Chihuahuan pine
*Pinus ponderosa P.& C. Lawson ponderosa pine
Pinus ponderosa var. scopulorum Engelm. Ponderosa pine
*Pinus strobiformis Engelm. Southwestern white pine
Pseudotsuga menziesii (Mirbel) Franco douglas fir
Pseudotsuga menziesii var. glauca (Beissn.) Franco rocky mountain douglas fir

New Mexico Maples:
*Acer glabrum Torr. Rocky mountain maple
Acer glabrum var. glabrum Torr. Rocky mountain maple
Acer glabrum var. neomexicanum (Greene) Kearney & Peebles NM Maple
Acer grandidentatum Nutt. Bigtooth maple
Acer grandidentatum var. grandidentatum Nutt. Bigtooth maple
*Acer grandidentatum var. sinuosum (Rehd.) Little canyon maple
*Acer negundo L. box elder
Acer negundo var. interius (Britt.) Sarg. Box elder maple
Acer negundo var. texanum Pax ashleaf maple

Much of the Northern part of the state is high plains (~4000-5000 ft) with juniper /pinyon savannah covering it. Over the last two years, large stands of pinyon have been killed by the bark beetle and a continued drought.

There are significant rivers that flow in the state, and through the higher semiarid desert regions — the Rio Grange flows through Albuquerque (which is at an altitude of 5000 ft), and the altitude is comparable to Denver but we are dryer and warmer in the summer. Albuquerque is bordered to the East by the Sandia and Manzano mountain ranges. Here many of the species listed above are native.

Local tree species and shrubs that have the potential of being made into effective, attractive and long-lived bonsai include those described above, as well as common, Rocky Mountain, and Alligator Bark juniper, and native Gambel oaks. Local hackberry, mountain mahogany, and New Mexico privet (foresteria neomexicana) are other native species used for bonsai. Some ABS members have successfully grown several species of sages as bonsai as well.

As for to the maple species that do well in New Mexico, there are the standards of Trident and Japanese maples (if shaded well). Some ABS club members have successfully grown azaleas (but only with significant effort and care), cedars, elms, tamarisks, willows, gingko, etc. Acer ginnala does quite well here without much protection and is often used in landscaping instead of Japanese maples – it also adapts well to bonsai culture here.

Growing Conditions

I will focus on the region surrounding Albuquerque, as this is where the main focus of the bonsai activity is located. To the south, conditions are similar if not identical to Tucson, Arizona. As you travel north, you enter the foothills and mountainous regions similar to Colorado with comparable growing conditions there.

Around Albuquerque, the weather is rather warm in the summer (100F and humidity of 10% or less) — the sun is brutal if your trees are left out without protection — they need to be covered and placed often in semi-shade, especially smaller trees. In the winter, we have seen -10, but normal temperatures are in the teens, with limited snow and much sun. There are usually one or two snowfalls of 6-12 inches in Albuquerque each winter, but in general it’s gone in a day or two. Therefore, for overwintering, traditional cold frames are often used. I also build a berm of straw bales and cover some of my trees which are not located in my greenhouse or cold frame for the winter.

The water is alkaline, averaging in the ph 6.5 range, so blueberries are not a species that do well here!

Bonsai Stock & Collecting

To obtain material from which bonsai can be developed, we have been able to obtain National Forest permits (“wildings”) for some areas, but not near Albuquerque where collecting is restricted. Local nurseries provide some sources of materials, as do conventions and mail order nurseries. In some case, we have had visiting masters bring stock material for workshops which also helps.

New Mexico—The Untapped Source

In my opinion, New Mexico is a source of bonsai material that is still untapped – there are wonderful species of juniper and pine, and a number of maples that adapt well to bonsai culture. I look forward to others also discovering the hospitality and bonsai possibilities in New Mexico in the future.


Roger Case is… (Roger Case Bio Here) Roger has been a member of the Albuquerque Bonsai Club since… Article reprinted here by permission of the Author. It originally appeared  in the North American Bonsai Federation Newsletter #10.

Resources

Organizations

Albuquerque Bonsai Club (ABC)  http://abqbonsaiclub.com/

American Bonsai Society   http://www.absbonsai.org/

Bonsai Clubs International   http://www.bonsai-bci.com/

US National Bonsai and Penjing Museum  http://www.usna.usda.gov/

Golden State Bonsai  Federation (GSBF)  http://www.gsbf-bonsai.org/

National Bonsai Foundation    http://www.bonsai-nbf.org/

Discussion Groups

Internet Bonsai Club   http://ibonsaiclub.forumotion.com/

Art of Bonsai Project http://www.artofbonsai.org/

Bonsai Magazines

Bonsai  Focus (English edition)   http://bonsaifocus.com/

International Bonsai  http://www.internationalbonsai.com/

Bonsai  Nurseries

Dallas Bonsai Garden (Al wire, tools)  http://www.dallasbonsai.com/

Adams Bonsai (Cu wire) http://www.adamsbonsai.com/

Deer Meadow Bonsai (Cu wire, plants)http://www.jimgremel.com/bonsaihomepage.html

Bonsai Northwest (Seattle) (plants, pots) http://www.bonsainw.com/

Articles

http://www.evergreengardenworks.com/

 http://www.top13.net/suiseki-artists-turn-so-far-unnoticed-stones-into-magnificent-art/

Become a Member

Anyone interested in Bonsai is welcome to join the Albuquerque Bonsai Club.

Membership dues are $24.00 per year for individuals or families starting in January.

The benefits of membership in the Albuquerque Bonsai Club include:

  • Monthly meetings, where members meet to share their interest in and knowledge of Bonsai.  Open to the public.
  • Seminars and Workshops. The Albuquerque Bonsai Club or its members offer Bonsai seminars and workshops where members get the opportunity to learn about Bonsai and increase their Bonsai skills and Knowledge.
  • Bonsai Shows. Members are encouraged to participate in Bonsai shows.
  • Library. The Albuquerque Bonsai Club maintains a library of Bonsai books available to members.
  • Monthly classes, where local masters work with members on special projects.  Members only.

If you wish to join the Albuquerque Bonsai Club, come to a club meeting at Heights Cumberland Presbyterian Church, 8600 Academy NE, room 403 on the 1st Saturday of the month at 9:00 AM.

History of Bonsai

The history of bonsai (pronounced bone-sigh) is cloaked in the mist of the past but it is now widely accepted that it was the Chinese who first created the miniature landscapes and trees that we now know as bonsai. In Japanese, bonsai can be literally translated as ‘tray planting’, but since originating in Asia so many centuries ago – it has developed into a whole new form. Called penjing by the Chinese, bonsai was believed to have had its start in the Han Dynasty. In this essay I will discuss some of the legends and facts surrounding the beginning of bonsai.

One of the earliest Chinese legends contends that it was in the Han Dynasty (206 B.C. – 220 A.D.) that an emperor created a landscape in his courtyard complete with hills, valleys, rivers, lakes and trees that represented his entire empire. He created the landscape so that he could gaze upon his entire empire from his palace window. This landscape form of art was also his alone to posess. It was said that anyone else found in possession of even a miniature landscape was seen as a threat to his empire and put to death.

Another Chinese legend relating to the beginnings of bonsai points to a fourth century A.D. Chinese poet and civil servant named Guen-ming. It’s believed that after his retirement he began growing chrysanthemums in pots. Some historians believe this was a step towards the beginning of bonsai in the Tang dynasty some 200 years later.

The earliest documented proof of bonsai was discovered in 1972 in the tomb of Prince Zhang Huai, of the Tang Dynasty (618 – 907 A.D.) who died in 706 A.D. Two wall paintings discovered in the tomb show servants carrying plants resembling bonsai. In one of the paintings a servant is seen carrying a miniature landscape and in the other painting a servant is shown carrying a pot containing a tree.

Bonsai comes to Japan

Even though it’s the Japanese who get most of the credit for bonsai, it wasn’t until the Heian period (794 – 1191A.D.) that Buddhist monks brought bonsai to the island. For many years following the arrival of bonsai, the art was practiced by only the wealthy and thus came to be known as a nobleman privilege. The fact that the art of bonsai was limited to the noble class almost caused the art to die out in Japan. It was with the Chinese invasion of Japan in the fourteenth century that the art of bonsai started to be practiced by people of all classes. Once the art was practiced by all classes, bonsai began to grow in popularity in Japan. The Chinese influence on the early bonsai masters is apparent since the Japanese still use the same characters to represent bonsai as the Chinese. After the establishment of bonsai in Japan, the Japanese went to great lengths to refine the art and a lot of credit must go to these early bonsai masters. The refinements that they developed has made bonsai what it is today.

Bonsai Comes West

The earliest bonsai to come to the west came mostly from Japan and China. The showing of bonsai at the Third Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1878 and later exhibitions in 1889 and 1900 increased western interest in bonsai and opened the door for the first major bonsai exhibit held in London in 1909. In these early years many westerners felt that the trees looked tortured and many openly voiced their displeasure in the way the trees were being treated by bonsai masters. It wasn’t until 1935 that opinions changed and bonsai was finally classified as an art in the west.

With the end of World War II, bonsai started to gain in popularity in the west. It was the soldiers returning from Japan with bonsai in tow that sparked western interest in the art, even though most of the trees brought home by these soldiers died a short time after their arrival. They survived long enough to create a desire in westerners to learn more about the proper care of their bonsai. The large Japanese-American population was invaluable to Americans in this respect. Their knowledge of the art of bonsai was of great interest ot many Americans learning the art.

Today, bonsai are sold in department stores, garden centers, nurseries, and many other places. However, most of these are young cuttings or starts and not the true bonsai produced by bonsai masters. Most trees purchased today are known as pre-bonsai and are for the most part only used as a starting point. To create a true bonsai work of art you need to learn as much as possible about the art and the trees you use. Information is your key to success and it is important to read as much as possible. It is also a good idea to join a local bonsai club so you are able to discuss the subject with experienced bonsai enthusiasts. As your knowledge and confidence grow, creating your own bonsai works of art will become easier and your enjoyment of bonsai will grow.

From :http://www.celestialbonsai.com/history.html